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Catalonia > Barcelona

Figueres, Cadaqués

       

     Talking about tourism in Europe, the only competitor of Paris goes to Barcelona. Thanks to the Olympic games in 1992, Barcelona received millions of visitors per year. Without the movement of independence, hardly we think its region, Catalonia. Barcelona was famous for Gaudí, while in Catalonia, more masters were born.

     Among the three greatest Spanish painters, two are from Catalonia, Joan Miló and Salvator Dalí. Comparing with Miló, Dalí’s image is a weirdo. His moustache always recalls me a figure of rapist. His anecdote of spitting on the portrait of his father stands out his strong character. The graveyard of the pioneer of Surrealism is next to the borderline of Spain and France, Figueres. Most of this works including paintings, sculptures, films and jewels are exhibited in the Dalí Theatre Museum. The museum is so easy to find for its special castle design with the wall decorated with local bread and huge eggs on the it. We can get to know this person from head to toe in this museum. Like all the great artists, while I was visiting, I was wondering, if he was sick mentally? How could he have such unique point of view? What does the soft clock mean? If he didn’t want to witness the ageing of his muse Gala? Why he created so many works of work however in the end he stood on the side of Franco? Why he brought so many sexual codes into his work in an ambiguous way? Like he said, he didn’t need any drugs, he was the drug itself. This potion makes the whole world addicted. Even now many singers are inspired by him.

    Nearby, his home town Cadaqués brings me another view. Very alike all the Mediterranean villages, the architectures are painted white and blue which light up people’s spirit. The water of the port was so clear that the fish seemed to fly inside. An old lady was feeding them with a baguette on hand. Her smile looked sweeter than the bread hence the fish couldn’t help showing up. The sand under the sunlight of October still left a feeling of warmth, attracting the last chasing-sun visitors. There was no tourism flow, no noise, no heat, Cadaqués definitely is the ideal spot for leisure! Within the village of thousand people, the majority is the visitors from France and other countries. In the afternoon, holding glass of wine, enjoying the brightness, chatting with several friends, it should be the life style! The strange is, in such a pretty village, it was hardly to find it in any work of Dalí. His old house had altered into a museum now. Surprisingly the graden behind the house was the best part. A lot of critics said Dalí was a money worshipper, so he was. Perhaps this was the most luxury garden that I had ever seen. Talented design and luxurious brands dressed up this venue. 

     Many people consider that traveling is someone goes to a place bored by others from the place where he gets bored. I think the same. I’m not saying that Barcelona is tedious. Instead of fight for the living space with the “guiris”, why not visit less famous but same adorable sites in Catalonia? After all, Barcelona is not the only one, there are Figueres and Cadaqués. 

 


加泰罗尼亚>巴塞罗那

菲格拉斯,卡达克斯

      

       许多人想到西班牙必先想到高迪的故乡巴塞罗那。的确,高迪的建筑是巴塞罗那的灵魂,感恩大道若没有巴特罗之家与米拉之家想必会黯然失色。有趣的是,巴塞罗那并不是个典型的西班牙城市,这里既不是弗拉明戈的发源地,更无法欣赏到斗牛表演。但所在的加泰罗尼亚,则是欧洲的现代艺术摇篮。

       西班牙三大画家中,有两位来自于加泰罗尼亚。胡安米洛和达利。相比胡安米洛,达利是个更为怪异的艺术家,他向上翘的小胡子和猥琐的眼神中人让我觉得他是个怪大叔。他在父亲画像上吐痰的行为成为人们饭后闲聊的八卦。在他的去世地西法小镇菲格拉斯Figueres的达利博物馆展出着他毕生的绘画、雕塑、影片与设计首饰品。博物馆像是个古怪的城堡,红墙上布满了当地特色面包的雕像,墙上矗立着达利标志性的设计大鸡蛋。《记忆的永恒》,Mae West人脸型的客厅,跳动的心脏胸针,在这里能被一一找到。就像每个杰出的艺术家一样,看着看着,我就觉得,他是不是个神经病,怎么会有这么多的鬼点子?时钟在流动,是想逃避岁月带来的哀愁?还是不希望看着比自己大十岁的妻子衰老离去?为什么他创作了许多幅关于战争的作品,却最后站在了西班牙独裁者弗朗哥的这一边?为什么有那么多很黄很暴力辣眼睛的画,但他的表现手法却又那么隐晦?正如他直言,他不需要毒药,他就是是毒药本身。而这枚画廊毒丸让当代的艺人们仍然上瘾。

       距离菲格拉斯不远的海滨村落卡达克斯Cadaquès是达利的故乡。就像所有的地中海小城,蓝白的房子让人心情一下子就好了起来。海边的海水是那样清澈,能看到鱼群在水中游来游去。路边一个拿着面包的老奶奶向海里沙着面包屑,鱼群纷纷涌来。在十月的沙滩上,尽管太阳褪去了他的炙热,仍有不少游客在此晒太阳,贪婪的享受那最后的沙滩上的余温。没有巴塞罗那市区海边下饺子的拥挤,卡达克斯才是一个让人享受生活的好去处。而就是在这样一个千人小镇上,聚集了来自世界各地的游客,很少能听到西班牙语的交谈声,法语则显得更为常见。午后的阳光中,人们坐在海边的小酒馆,品一杯白葡萄酒说说笑笑,这才是地中海人民的生活方式呢。让人奇怪的是,这样一个美丽的渔村,几乎没有在达利的作品里留下身影。达利故居已被改成了博物馆,里面虽然没有陈列大量作品,但房子的后花园却按照达利的设计,陈列着他为法拉利设计的装饰。晚年的达利曾被人病垢拜金主义,光从他的后花园中便能明显感受到,这哪是后花园啊,明明是一个高定艺术奢侈品乐园!        

      很多人说,旅行就是人从一个无聊的地方跑到另一个无聊的地方。我想的确就是这样,多少人羡慕我能居住在巴塞罗那,而我却跑到其他的地方。并不是说巴塞不美,而是在加泰仍有许多美丽的地方,与其在市区内和游客争夺生存空间,还不如去那些同样有趣的地方,而这些地方当然不止菲格拉斯或卡达克斯。毕竟,加泰罗尼亚不只有巴塞罗那。

     

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