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Une Année à Paris, l’Automne

The story in autumn of Paris starts with a dream of a mademoiselle.

Lady Margaret is a rainy Parisian. She likes to stay in her cozy house while listening to the rain drops on the window. Reading books and listening to radio are her biggest hobbies. Not like a common french girl, she takes tea instead of drinking coffee. Especially she likes taking a sip, reading future from Tarot cards, focusing on the murmur of rain and falling into deep sleep. Probably because she gets her blood from Marie Antoinette, she dreams if she can go back to the royalty. That’s why a prestigious tea salon can always touch her heart.

Among all the tea salons, Au Petite Versailles Du Marais is her favourite. This name always reminds her the sumptuous treatment from the heart of Paris, Versailles. Such a tiny house has all the french classics: chandelier, flower printed pillow, canapé and giant gold-rimmed mirror. A long carpet runs from the door till the cashier. When the lights on, the entire room shines glorious light. 

There is only French mature ladies and flavoured tea selections. Among several perfumed black tea, green tea and white tea, Lady Margaret loves white tea the most. So she chooses Tendre Rencontre au Ponts des Arts. From its pink packaging to cute cloth tea bag, details tell the guests how extraordinary the quality is. Not to mention the sweet lychee fragrance. The gorgeous Margaret sits straight, one hand holding Le Rêve au Pavillon Rouge, one hand sending the cup to her creamed lips. Oh Margaret, such an unusual mademoiselle.

Just next to the store, a bakery which belongs to the tea salon supports all the pastry for the guests. Even though Tarte d’abricot is Margaret’s all time favourite, this time she’d rather choose a tower La Mère Superieur. It is base on a creamy brioche, in the middle is coffee filled chou and on the top a pink berry macaron, elegant and exquisite, just like the pink cheek of Margret. 

Margaret is the youngest guest in the salon. There is no kid nor teenagers but only lovely old ladies. They never talk too loud. They share the same habit, however, Margaret’s story is somewhat different from anyone here.

She dreams to have tea in Chinese porcelain within a Chinese palace.  She doesn’t known that in the other side of a city, her dream can come true in a snap.

T’Xuan is so exclusive place! It is like a little China in the city of light. Nothing here is related with France. All the furnitures are red wood. The decoration of the wall is made with Chinese porcelain. And at the corner if the ceiling, she can even find a cage for real birds singing inside. Love at first sight, this unique venue may become her must go place. 

The signature dish is the little pagoda which contains 5 dishes. Look, on the top is a bowl of Taro balls. Following on the left side it’s mango with black rice while on the right side it’s orange tapioca pudding. Then in the heart of the pagoda in a decorative vase, a little plant is breathing out white smoke, creating an atmosphere of heaven. On the bottom line, a creamy cake and matcha jelly sit together. These consist the luxury pleasure to the mouth for two guests. 

Someone must take Margaret here to share the sweet melty sensation in a gloomy day. As if a shitty day happens to her, the waiters here knows how to flatter the guests, exactly like the concubines who rack their brain in a bid for a smile from the emperor in the forbidden city. Sometimes Margaret wishes to be a man so he could be the king of France. By some distance he will unite Europe and China to have a peaceful world. Then there will be no need to divine from the Tarot cards nor listen to radio to calm down.

Today Lady Margaret is staying in her home as usual, having tea and reading books. She seems  to be waiting, waiting for someone to show her another tea world. The night of autumn falls earlier and easier. A cup of tea can help her sleep tighter. In her dream, she is dressing on a couture, taking Oolong in a pavilion in the Forbidden City. Her pink outfit suits red and gold color of the building shining cheerful light.

Shhh, good night.

 

– Au Petite Versailles Du Marais

   1 Rue Tiron, 75004 Paris

– T’Xuan 糖轩

   56 Rue de la Fayette, 75009 Paris


巴黎的一年,秋

巴黎之秋沉睡在一位法国少女的梦境中。

这位少女名叫玛格丽特,与左手拿香烟,右手捧酒杯的法国人不同,玛格丽特喜欢品茶。尤其是在细雨绵绵不知阴晴的秋季,她总是呆在家里,要么读书,要么听收音机。若天开始下雨,她会一边倾听雨水打在天花板上的声音,一边摊开塔罗牌探查自己的前生,随后缓缓陷入睡意。也许是因为流淌着末代皇后玛丽安托瓦内特的血液,华丽的茶室总能打动她的少女心。

Au Petite Versailles Du Marais是她在巴黎最爱的茶室。正如其名,凡尔赛般的奢华让她流连忘返。这一间小小的茶室有着法国贵族宫廷的精髓:从正门进入,长长的地毯笔直通向柜台;地毯两侧,长沙发椅和和古典椅子让人联想末代王后的寝室;两侧墙壁装上了镶着金边的巨大玻璃;抬头一看,玻璃吊灯折射出璀璨而温和的淡黄色光芒。

这里有红茶,绿茶,白茶和花草茶。她最喜欢的是一个叫Tendre Rencontre au Ponts des Arts艺术之桥的温柔相会的白茶。粉色小巧的包装和织布茶包,与纸袋和无纺布茶包形成对比,细节里便告诉客人们茶包优异的质量。而那香味更不用提,一股淡淡的荔枝甜蜜香气萦绕在玛格丽特身旁。她左手拿着法译红楼梦,右手捧着茶杯,一股温热的暖流驱散从外带来的寒气。玛格丽特,多么与众不同的少女!

就在茶室旁边,是个同名的面包坊。这里的法棍曾在巴黎排名第二,而甜点同样出色。尽管杏子派Tarte d’abricot是玛格丽特的最爱,可是,店里的一道女王塔La Mère Superieur才是最吸引人的。塔的最底端是一个奶油夹心的面包,中间夹了一个咖啡味的泡芙,最上面这是覆盆子味的粉色马卡龙,奢华而精致。

店里的客人皆是成熟的风韵美人,因此玛格丽特是这里最年轻的那个,没有任何年轻人嘈杂声。尽管她与其他熟女有一样的喜好,可是有点不同的是,像玛丽皇后,玛格丽特向往着中国。

她也想拿着中国出产的瓷器,在中国的宫殿里品茶吃点心。她不知道,在巴黎的另一端有着这样的一个地方,让自己的梦境成为现实,给暗淡的秋季带来一份鲜红。

糖轩就是这个地方。像一座红与金的东方宫殿一样在欧洲的中心,糖轩的一切家具都木质的。墙上用瓷器装饰着,房间内的柱子也是红色的,梁上挂着一个惯着小鸟的笼子。若她见到这里,一定会坠入爱河。

这里的招牌是乘着五道点心的小亭子。最上面是一碗红糖芋圆,Q弹爽滑;亭子的中心是一个吞云吐雾的装饰性盆栽;左上乘着芒果紫米冰,下方坐着芒果班戟;右上方是橙汁西米露,下方则是抹茶布丁。这一道,极具观赏性,有集结了格式中式点心的特色,再配一杯柠檬红茶,既满足大快朵颐感,又不过分甜腻。尤其是中心的那杯装饰盆栽,给人一种仙境之感。

玛格丽特需要来到这里,尤其是在这样阴晴不定的秋季。因为茶餐厅的员工像极了宫廷剧的仆人,她们知道如何逗客人开心,郁闷的心情一到这里便会烟消云散,仿佛自己是紫禁城的哪位小主。这与向往宫廷的玛格丽特一拍即合。这样安逸的气氛里,玛格丽特也不再需要听收音机或事读塔罗牌来平静内心。

今日玛格丽特如同往常一样呆在家里,边喝茶边阅读。她似乎在等待,等待着某人带她探索新的茶室。秋夜来的越来越早,一杯安神茶能让她早早进入梦乡。在她的梦境中,她身穿香奈儿高定,坐在颐和园中品着乌龙。那粉色的服饰融入红与金的宫廷背景,在秋日夕阳下闪出淡淡的感性。

嘘,她睡着了。

 

– Au Petite Versailles Du Marais

  地址 1 Rue Tiron, 75004 Paris

– T’Xuan 糖轩

  地址 56 Rue de la Fayette, 75009 Paris

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